The Gorilla grow tent with 10 Feet Length by 20 Feet Width is one of the largest grow tents on the market. It's also one of the most expensive. It's also fucking awesomely good quality, like most Gorilla tents. Let's get started on a comprehensive review of this behemoth of a grow tent.
About Gorilla Grow Manufacturer:
Gorilla is one of the most popular manufacturers of high quality grow tents. Based in Southern California, United States, Gorilla Grow Tent was founded in 2011, by a group of engineers, growers, and designers. Their goal was to produce the thickest, strongest, and most durable grow tent on the market. Fast forward to 2016, and they are a worldwide known brand, and respected for that goal and the results of their pursuit.
The sheer quality of the 1680D canvas fabric used on Gorilla tents is no joke. I've had tents (cheap chinese ones) with what seems half the thickness (literally they are 200D - 600D generally) They always had little pinhole light leaks and more developed within a crop or two. With Gorilla canvas, this isn't an issue. I've heard of them being used for crop after crop with little to no degradation of fabric quality.
Another concern related to canvas quality is the zipper. Gorilla has a heavy duty zipper and double stiched zipper attach, which makes it relatively bulletproof. If you've ever had a low quality tent with a broken or light-leaking zipper, then you know the severe pain associated with this. Huge impact, small item.
Many experienced indoor growers also recommend Gorilla tents for their solid metal interlocking structure. When you've got a serious indoor setup, with perhaps thousands of dollars of lights hanging a very breakable distance away from the ground, the last thing you want is a cheap plastic or weak metal frame collapsing. Not only is this financially devastating, but also a common way that cannabis grow related fires start. Be careful, and always test and create backup supports if you ever question the quality of tent structure. You really don't have this worry with Gorilla grow tents, and certainly not this large tent model.
Price. Can you sell your car? Haha just kidding! Truthfully, if you have a crop large enough to fill this tent, you shouldn't have an issue with paying the $2699+ price tag.
10x20 Gorilla Tent Features
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Proper air circulation and ventilation in your grow tent is imperative to a high yield grow.
Let's look at the science behind proper ventilation:
So now I hope you understand the need for proper grow tent ventilation setup.
What you need:
Grow Tent (or grow space with a way to hold up lights)
Rope Ratchets (for hanging grow light)
Grow Light - compare cannabis grow lights
Exhaust Fan
Ducting
Ducting Clamps
Carbon Filter (optional) - learn about carbon filters
A way to hide exhaust vent from outside (if needed, explained below)
Step 1: Set up your grow tent
Step 2: Install both fan and carbon filter(if you plan to use one). These items are often tough to install after the grow light, so get these parts in place before you go to the next step
Step 3: Install your grow lights in the tent with rope ratchets. Don’t plug in anything until you’re about to start growing.
Step 4: Inside the grow tent, connect everything with ducting. You will need ducting clamps. Connect carbon filter to light, and light to exhaust fan.
Step 5: Outside the grow tent, install ducting to bring air from fan to exit outside. Use ducting to connect the exit port on your fan to wherever you’re going to exhaust hot air. Try to create a short straight path that’s as air-tight as possible until air is safely outside.
Step 6: Ensure intake hole is open so new fresh air can enter the tent. Also make sure that there’s a window or door open in the grow room so fresh air can come inside to replace the hot air being vented out.
Tip: Make sure there is no extra slack in the ducting if possible. you will need extra ducting to be able to adjust your lights, but use something like binder clips or chip clips to bunch together extra ducting.
Keeping a straight path that air has to go through will help make the whole exhaust system more efficient.
If things are getting too cold in the grow area (for example in winter months), you can exhaust the heat back into the grow room to help warm things up, or you could turn down the overall air being moved by your fan by putting it on a timer or using a fan speed controller. Some growers even exhaust the heat into the house in the winter for free heating.
If you're looking for the best grow tent on the market for your money, you've come to the right place. We have tried and tested every major tent in the indoor cannabis growing market. When looking for high quality, it comes down to a number of factors, including:
Now that you know some of the deciding factors in your grow tent investment of cold hard cash, let's look at the best of the best. It really comes down to two companies at this point.
Gorilla Grow Tent:
Secret Jardin Grow Tent:
Humidity. It sucks. It's wet. It's dry. It's air. It can be difficult to manage the humidity levels of an indoor grow tent for cannabis. It's essential that your humidity stay in the following ranges:
So, the question is, how do you manage your humidity, particularly in very humid or very dry climates of the world?
The answer is of course a dehumidifier for the flowering and final weeks before harvest, but often we see growers also using humidifiers to increase the humidity levels for younger plants.
Of course as a rule of green thumb (haha) we are referring to all humidity levels in Relative Humidity.
Cleaning your grow tent in between grows, and often periodically during your grow, is an essential part of growing medical grade cannabis. Your goal when approaching this maintenance task should be centered on both sanitation and sterilization.
In reference to indoor horticulture, sanitization is essentially a good, deep cleaning. It is as much a part of an indoor garden’s ongoing maintenance as changing light bulbs or refilling nutrient reservoirs. Sanitization practices will usually eliminate some of the most unwanted micro-organisms. However, sanitization does not necessarily mean the use of a cleaning product or antimicrobial product. A simple wipe down to remove the “filth” could be considered sanitizing. Think of sanitization as keeping a consistently tidy growroom. By doing this, growers can remove most pathogens and prevent a slew of problems. There are many practices of sanitization a grower should apply within an indoor growroom. Creating a checklist to keep track of what was done, and when, can be an invaluable tool in maintaining the sanitization of an indoor garden.
Sterilization is a more involved cleaning process and refers to the elimination of micro-organisms including fungi, bacteria, spores and viruses. Sterilization can be achieved by using heat, filtration or chemical cleaners-the most common method for the indoor gardener being the chemical cleaners. Sterilization is generally used more selectively within an indoor growroom. In other words, it is unnecessary, and probably counterproductive, to try and sterilize everything within an indoor garden. The items normally sterilized by horticulturists are hydroponic systems, planting containers, cloning chambers or other places where plants are most sensitive to pathogens. The most common chemical cleaners used as sterilizing agents in horticulture are bleach and hydrogen peroxide. When you are sterilizing with a chemical cleaner it is always a good idea to wear gloves and goggles to protect yourself from potentially abrasive chemicals.
Hydrogen peroxide is good too for wiping surfaces and such, and it safe around plants as it degrades to just water and a free oxygen molecule - no chemicals at all.
Bleach is best for killing everything, virii included, but Hydrogen Peroxide is better for use when the garden is up and running.
Also, be careful with certain chemical cleaners, as they may damage the reflective lining of your tent.
Let's get to cleaning specific problems with grow tents:
Home growing is a contentious topic and theories on how to get the biggest, most beautiful buds range from radical to ridiculous. And at least here in Germany, one element of indoor cannabis cultivation that’s a hot topic among enthusiasts is the reflective material inside grow tents. Should it be white or silver?
More than 20 years ago, the first generation of compact, self-contained growing environments —generally called grow tents or grow boxes — had white lining. They delivered decent results but were relatively complicated to assemble and cumbersome to work with. The time was ripe for a lightweight, flexible chamber, affordable even for plant lovers on a budget in search of quick setup and breakdown time.
After several attempts with prototypes, a Berlin-based company in 2001 introduced the first locally-made grow tent on the domestic market. It had white lining.
As indoor tents took hold in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, it was widely believed that white inner coatings provided the best possible reflection of available, artificially-produced light. After all, schoolkids on both sides of the Atlantic have been taught for generations that white reflects the most light of any color while black reflects the least.
After a few years had passed, some producers wanted to improve their grow tents. They proceeded to retrofit their equipment with a silver inner coating that eventually came to be referred to as Mylar. The move cleaved German-speaking home growers into two factions: those who believe that silver-lined boxes reflect light better and those who sided with white coatings.
Each side also claimed additional benefits. Silver liners made grow tents invisible to thermal cameras, proponents of Mylar said. Advocates for white liners claimed the coating minimized accumulation of heat in the tent.
The divide also came down to money.
World-renown master grower Jorge Cervantes wrote in 1998 wrote that there is hardly anything better to reflect light than alpine white paint. According to his first “bible” on indoor growing, only silver-metalized Mylar has better properties than pure white.
But Mylar itself is extremely expensive. And, in fact, it has little to do with what’s actually used in grow boxes.
You see, true Mylar is transparent. The name refers to a very specific, ultra-thin, tear-resistant polyester film with all sorts of uses. It’s a registered trademark of Dupont Tejjin Films. But just as people now refer to nearly any cola as “Coke“ and call facial tissues “Kleenex,“ growers the world over now misleadingly refer to any silver-lined sheeting as Mylar.
In truth, most silvery films found in grow tents are usually made of cheaper, generic, Mylar-like materials that are vapor-coated with silver paint.
To get to the bottom of the issue, a Czech grow-book author known as Mr. Jose, a respected peer of Cervantes, exhaustively tested the reflective properties of grow-tent coatings at a physical sciences institute in Prague.
In the tests, light diffusion and heat distribution were measured and compared between a white-coated box and a silver-coated one.
Mr. Jose’s conclusion? For cannabis cultivation, white is right.
As Cervantes’ first books hit the market in the mid-1990s, light output was measured in lumens. More recently it’s become popular to measure in photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) per watt. This method measures the light actually reaching plants, not on the total light output of the bulb or other light source.
In Mr. Jose’s PAR tests, the white coating always delivered best light to the plants. White also minimized heat buildup inside the tents.
While white tents in Europe are celebrating a something of a renaissance, silver coatings have almost exclusively prevailed in the U.S. and Canada.
This development is due not to properties of reflection; the reason is much more mundane: The first inexpensive Chinese copies of the original German white-lined tent, which reached American and Canadian markets over a decade ago, used PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic instead of PET (polyethylene).
The high level of so-called plasticizers, such as phthalates, contained in the white PVC lining of the Chinese-made tents meant the linings actually evaporated due to the intense heat of light sources inside. In one fell swoop, those first knock-off white grow tents ruining entire harvests and destroyed the reputation of white coatings across North America.
Source: Leafly